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2026-10-23 · UTCPublished

The Day in Watchmaking

12 stories selected from the day’s reporting. Zenith Plans Job Cuts and Lower Production in Shift Upmarket.

Top Stories

LVMH-owned Zenith plans to reduce its model range and production as it restructures following years of financial losses. Up to half of employees at its Le Locle manufacture could lose their jobs as the brand shifts toward the high-end market.

Why it matters (interpretation): The potential scale of the job cuts suggests a fundamental reset of Zenith’s manufacturing footprint and commercial strategy, rather than a routine adjustment.

Diving with Doxa in the Gulf provides a backdrop to reflections on watch collecting, challenging the stereotype of collectors as solitary enthusiasts focused solely on admiring and maintaining their timepieces.

Gérald Genta’s early watch designs include the 1954 Universal Genève Polerouter, a 34.5mm model commissioned to celebrate SAS polar flights, and the 1964 Omega Constellation C-Shape, notably references 168.017 and 168.019. His 1966 Universal Genève Shadow designs pursued ultra-thin construction using micro-rotor movements.

New Releases

Urwerk’s titanium UR-300 Time Quantum replaces conventional wandering-hour arms with two independent bars forming a T-frame and carrying four three-sided prisms. Each hour, the bars exchange positions, their supporting carousel advances 72 degrees, and the prisms rotate simultaneously. The active hour numeral tracks minutes along a 108-degree arc at six o’clock.

Why it matters (interpretation): This represents a substantive reworking of the wandering-hours architecture that has defined Urwerk since 1997, rather than simply a new case or dial treatment.

Hanhart has partnered with Miami-based car and watch enthusiast hub 0260 and streetwear retailer BAIT on the 417 ES × 0260 & BAIT. The collaboration connects the brand, known for pilots’ chronographs, with 0260 founder Lex Borrero and BAIT leader Eric Peng Cheng.

Industry & Business

Auctions & Secondary Market