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Edition of 2026-10-28 · UTCPublished 7 min read

The Day in Watchmaking

Ownership and continuity frame today’s developments. Ebel is preparing a revival backed by a consortium involving F.P. Journe and Chanel, with Pierre Jacques at the helm. Its heritage of flowing cases and integrated bracelets provides context for that effort. At Patek Philippe’s seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan, Thierry Stern reaffirmed the family’s ownership commitment and identified his sons as successors, pairing public watchmaking demonstrations and school visits with a statement of continuity. Collector activity also merits attention: Roni Madhvani is bringing a handful of unique watches, including rare Cartiers, to auction for the first time. Among releases, Sylvain Pinaud’s 30s Tourbillon combines a 30-second titanium tourbillon cage with a 100-hour reserve, while Breguet brings handcrafted Quai de l’Horloge guilloché to six Marine versions. MB&F’s Legacy Machine No. 1 EVO adds titanium and rose-gold options, and Chanel expands Première Galon with diamond-set white-gold interpretations of its braided-bracelet design.

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Ebel is preparing a revival backed by a consortium involving F.P. Journe and Chanel, with watch-industry veteran Pierre Jacques at the helm. The brand’s heritage includes flowing case shapes, integrated bracelets and its historical use of Zenith’s El Primero automatic chronograph movement, running at 36,000 vibrations per hour.

Why it matters (interpretation): The involvement of F.P. Journe and Chanel suggests a potentially substantial repositioning for Ebel, supported by established watchmaking and luxury-industry resources.

Patek Philippe held its seventh Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Milan from October 2–18, 2026, offering free admission, watchmaking demonstrations and school visits. President Thierry Stern reiterated the family’s ownership commitment and identified his sons as successors. Exhibition releases included the 5978P perpetual calendar chronograph, with most special pieces reserved for Italian collectors.

New Releases

Sylvain Pinaud’s 30s Tourbillon comes in three versions with 39mm titanium or platinum cases, measuring 11.2mm thick. Asymmetric silver, black or white dials feature white agate or onyx centres. Its in-house hand-wound movement runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, with twin barrels providing 100 hours of power reserve and a titanium tourbillon cage rotating every 30 seconds.

MB&F’s dual-time Legacy Machine No. 1 EVO comes in 42mm Grade 5 titanium with a rhodium dial plate ($109,000) or 5N rose gold with green dial plate ($137,000; 33 pieces). Its manual-winding movement runs at 18,000vph with a 60-hour reserve and double hairspring. Both offer 80m water resistance, FlexRing shock protection and quick-change rubber straps.

CIGA Design has introduced the Time Cipher Gold, adding a third colorway to the collection. It follows the black and bare-steel versions released earlier in 2026, which feature mirror-polished contours, capsule-shaped micro-sandblasted recesses and black dials with silver index tracks.

Auctions & Secondary Market

Worth Reading

A. Lange & Söhne’s diamond-set Datograph Perpetual brings back a bracelet configuration collectors have sought since such options disappeared from its catalogue in the late 2000s. Earlier Lange watches fitted with Wellendorff bracelets have seen sharp secondary-market price increases, while differences in bracelet designs and original configurations complicate authentication.

Hublot’s Classic Fusion Tributo revisits its founder Carlo Crocco’s original 1980 design with a 38mm case, up from 36mm, measuring 9.5mm thick. Twelve screws and a black rubber strap retain signature elements, while a layered, stepped case and shorter, downturned lugs distinguish the new model from a direct reissue.

Seiko celebrated its 145th anniversary with an evening in Sydney bringing together watches, Japanese artistry and people associated with the brand. Founded by Kintaro Hattori in 1881, Seiko’s milestones include the 1913 Laurel wristwatch, the 1965 62MAS diver and the 1969 Quartz Astron.

The King Seiko VANAC HKF002 is one of three titanium references added in 2026 to the collection revived in 2025. Its angular case, lightweight feel and titanium finishing earn praise, while accuracy, thickness and conspicuous styling draw criticism. The hands-on assessment awards it an overall score of 8.25/10.

Baume & Mercier traces its origins to a watch shop opened by brothers Louis-Victor and Pierre Joseph Célestin Baume in Les Bois in the mid-1830s. Pierre Joseph Célestin moved to London in 1847, followed by the establishment of Baume Brothers in 1851. Subsequent generations expanded internationally and competed in observatory precision trials.