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Edition of 2026-11-06 · UTCPublished 8 min read

The Day in Watchmaking

Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program remains the day’s most consequential development, with estimates now putting it on track to generate $1 billion by 2027. Launched at the end of 2022 through Bucherer boutiques, the scheme has also been broadened by updated rules introduced in May 2025, allowing Rolex watches to be sold after just two years rather than three. At the same time, court-seized Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet watches are set to cross the auction block in Bordeaux on 10 November, underscoring the continued reach of the secondary market. Among the new releases, Biver debuts the AB as its first stainless-steel watch, while Breguet presents the Classique Souscription in platinum. Urwerk has unveiled the UR-300 Time Quantum in two limited editions, and CWC has launched the Navy Eighty CD-1 Diver. Klokers, Praesidus, Trafford and Briston have also added new models across their collections.

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Rolex’s Certified Pre-Owned program, launched at the end of 2022 through Bucherer boutiques, is now estimated to generate $1 billion by 2027. The piece traces how the scheme evolved, noting that Rolex watches can now be sold after just two years instead of three under the updated rules introduced in May 2025.

Why it matters (interpretation): This points to Rolex turning a once-disruptive idea into a major business line, which could further legitimize brand-run pre-owned sales and reshape pricing dynamics in the secondary market.

Urwerk has introduced the UR-300 Time Quantum in two 25-piece versions, the Titan and the AlTiN. The 45.2 mm by 58.8 mm Grade 5 titanium case is 18.25 mm thick, fits on a NATO strap and is rated to 30 meters. It uses the automatic Calibre UR-30.01V with 44 hours of power reserve.

Why it matters (interpretation): This is another technically distinctive release from Urwerk, centered on a new self-reconfiguring hour display. The watch continues the brand’s focus on mechanical theatrics and may appeal to collectors who track avant-garde independent horology.

CWC has launched the Navy Eighty CD-1 Diver, a 41mm fixed-bar Royal Navy case watch inspired by early British Ministry of Defense pieces. It adds applied markers, a ceramic bezel, new 6 o’clock dial text, X1 Super-Luminova in multiple shades, and a Sellita SW200-1 Top Grade automatic movement.

New Releases

Praesidus has added the Montar collection with two 44mm models: the Ranger Ana-Digi and GMT. The Ana-Digi combines a rotating compass bezel, digital time and date, analogue hands, alarm and stopwatch functions, a matte black stainless steel case, sapphire-coated mineral glass and 100 meters of water resistance. Each model is limited to 200 pieces across four colorways.

Oris has introduced a 29 mm Big Crown Pointer Date with two refined dial variants and an automatic movement. The compact steel model keeps the line’s pointer-date layout and vintage cues, including the signature crown and fluted bezel, while targeting smaller wrists with 35.5 mm lug-to-lug and 11.4 mm thickness.

Auctions & Secondary Market

Worth Reading

Jaeger-LeCoultre has presented The Collectibles VIII, titled ‘LeCoultre’, in New York with nine museum-grade U.S.-market watches from 1933 to 1981. The selection is shown on Madison Avenue and includes vintage pieces from the brand’s American-market history.

Why it matters (interpretation): This extends Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Collectibles programme, which helps reinforce interest in the brand’s vintage archive and its historical U.S. market connections.

The 26th Bourse horlogère de Genève will take place on Sunday, 8 November 2026, at iceBergues in central Geneva. Organized by the Société Genevoise des Amateurs d’Horlogerie, the free event will feature vintage and contemporary watches, clocks, parts, tools, accessories, specialist literature and on-site expert appraisals.

Jean-Marc Fleury’s JM Fleury Chronograph Openwork pairs a titanium case with sapphire dial elements that expose the hand-wound FM04 chronograph inside. The movement draws on the Lemania 2310 but has been reworked and enlarged for modern proportions. The watch is priced at CHF 59,000.

Perezcope examines Phillips lot 179, a Patek Philippe Ref. 1463 ‘Tasti Tondi’ stainless steel chronograph, and argues that the dial claimed to be untouched shows evidence of prior restoration. The piece says the steel Breguet numerals appear to have been reapplied and compares the watch with historical photographs and earlier sale images.

Why it matters (interpretation): This highlights a recurring concern in the vintage market: restored watches may be presented as original, which can affect collector confidence and pricing. It also underscores the importance of provenance research and photographic comparison before bidding.

Melbourne microbrand Second Hour is marking its seventh anniversary with the 50-piece Gin Clear Mosaic, a dive watch with a three-dimensional mosaic dial in graduated blues. Founder Peter Sargison says the brand began with a dive-watch sketch that was funded on Kickstarter in 33 minutes, after he spent three decades in corporate jobs.

Hodinkee Japan previews Christie’s and Antiquorum ahead of Geneva’s autumn watch auctions, where more than 1,225 lots are expected across four houses. The Christie’s sale on November 9 includes F.P. Journe tourbillons, Schumacher-owned Journe pieces, and rare Patek Philippe references such as a Hankjar Nautilus Ref. 3700 and a Ref. 1518.

Watch Advice reviews the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH033, focusing on its forest green birch-textured dial, refined case finishing, high-beat movement and comfortable wear. The piece also notes the tool-free micro-adjustment clasp, while finding the bracelet less distinctive and the case thickness potentially awkward under tight cuffs.

Daan de Groot explains why he finally bought a NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Neomatik Platinum Gray after having the brand on his radar for years. The hands-on piece reflects on the watch’s appeal as a clean, approachable entry point into mechanical watches.

What to Watch

  • 2026-11-07GPHG 2026 ceremony kicks off in Geneva on November 7. — source story
  • 2026-11-0826th Bourse horlogère de Genève at iceBergues, Geneva; free entry from 8:30 to 16:00. — source story
  • 2026-11-09Christie’s Geneva watch auction in the autumn sale series — source story
  • 2026-11-10Auction of court-seized watches in Bordeaux. — source story