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Edition of 2026-11-07 · UTCPublished 7 min read

The Day in Watchmaking

Geneva and Paris anchor the day’s most consequential watch news, with Phillips set to offer Cartier’s Portique n° 4 mysterious clock, an Art Deco piece from 1924 and one of only six made, while Bonhams Paris will bring two historic F.P. Journe watches to auction, including a platinum Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription” and a first-generation Chronomètre à Résonance. Auction coverage also widens with Phillips’s preview of 17 watches for Geneva Auction: XXIV and GQ Watches’ roundup of 11 highlights from major sales. On the release front, Archi Works and Amsterdam Vintage Watches have introduced The Diplomat 1.87, Baume & Mercier marked its first New York event in a decade with the new Clifton, and Jack Mason’s Strat-o-timer GMT draws on Rolex GMT-Master II meteorite dial cues. Elsewhere, Horologically Unique launched the HU-02, while Ressence, Fossil, Andersen Genève, Roger Dubuis and Louis Vuitton all feature in new-watch coverage.

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Phillips will offer Cartier’s Portique n° 4 mysterious clock on 8 November 2026 in Geneva, lot 220 of the Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV. Created in 1924, the Art Deco piece is estimated at CHF 1.8 million to CHF 3.6 million; only six examples were made, and this one is the only hexagonal version.

Why it matters (interpretation): This is one of the most significant Cartier clock appearances at auction in years, with a seven-figure estimate and exceptionally rare provenance. Strong interest could reinforce demand for important early Cartier decorative clocks and raise the market profile of the mysterious pendule category.

Bonhams will auction two historic F.P. Journe watches in Paris on 19 November 2026: a 1999 Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription” in platinum, numbered 07/99T and estimated at €700,000 to €1.2 million, and a 2001 Chronomètre à Résonance first generation in platinum, estimated at €300,000 to €600,000.

Why it matters (interpretation): These lots underline continued demand for early F.P. Journe watches, especially pieces tied to the brand’s founding period and technical milestones. The estimates also show how top independent modern watches can reach six- and seven-figure levels at auction.

Archi Works and Amsterdam Vintage Watches introduce The Diplomat 1.87, a new watch collaboration highlighted by Fratello. The article frames the release around Jasper Lijfering’s AVW platform and the Archi Works partnership, but the excerpt does not state the watch’s specifications, price, or production size.

Baume & Mercier marked its first New York City event in 10 years with the launch of the new Clifton. The evening paired vintage Baume & Mercier highlights with a discussion of the brand’s direction, presented in partnership with Time+Tide.

Why it matters (interpretation): null

New Releases

Auctions & Secondary Market

Worth Reading

Fratello goes hands-on with the Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton, a skeletonized take on the revived brand’s Chief line. The piece frames the watch as part of Favre Leuba’s 2024 comeback after its long absence from the market, but the excerpt does not state the case specs, movement details or price.

Ressence’s Type 10 DN Dark Knight is a 41.5mm grade 5 titanium, oil-filled watch limited to 100 pieces and priced at CHF 45,000. It uses the brand’s new in-house automatic Cal. RW-04 with about 60 hours of power reserve, 50m water resistance, a dark blue DLC-like coating, GMT display and 120-second running disc.

Why it matters (interpretation): This shows Ressence is expanding its technical independence beyond ETA-based movements while keeping its oil-filled, magnetic display system intact. The launch also signals that the brand is pushing deeper into high-end, low-volume mechanical watchmaking with a fully in-house architecture.

Time+Tide rounds up new releases from Andersen Genève, Roger Dubuis and Louis Vuitton during Geneva’s autumn auction week. Louis Vuitton revisits the Tambour Guichet in a new metal, Andersen expands its worldtimer line with a London edition, and Roger Dubuis presents a new myth-themed watch.

Farer’s Barnwell Pilot Series II is reviewed in a brown PVD titanium case with a turbine-style dial. The watch keeps a Type B pilot layout with an outsized minute track, smaller inner hour ring, lozenge handset and orange lume, while using a muted brown dial and sky-blue dial detailing for legibility.

Dan-Andrei reviews the Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 Reine, a pink gold rivière watch built around the Calibre 101. The piece highlights the movement’s 1929 origin, its 98 parts, the Duoplan-inspired two-level architecture, and its historical ties to Queen Elizabeth II’s 1953 coronation watch. The author notes the reference was launched in 2018.

Watch Advice rounds up five watches made from unconventional case materials, including aluminium in Bulgari’s Aluminium collection. The feature also discusses more unusual examples such as rock, tennis racquets and cheese, using brands like Hublot, H. Moser & Cie. and Tissot as examples of material experimentation in watchmaking.

Time+Tide pits the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium against the Rolex Land-Dweller in a 3-Watch Throwdown video. The piece is framed as payback after an earlier New York matchup and focuses on the two Rolex sports watches rather than a new product announcement.

What to Watch

  • 2026-11-08Phillips will sell the Portique n° 4 in Geneva at the Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV. — source story
  • 2026-11-19Bonhams Paris Fine Watches sale at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr, Paris. — source story