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Edition of 2026-10-26 · UTCPublished 7 min read

The Day in Watchmaking

Zenith’s consideration of up to 200 job cuts puts the consequences of its repositioning in sharp focus. Following years of losses, the LVMH-owned manufacture is reducing production, models and distribution as it moves toward lower-volume, higher-end watches, with completion targeted for 2029. Audemars Piguet, meanwhile, is extending its direct sales activity into certified pre-owned watches through The Watch Keepers. In the auction market, Phillips’ correction of the delivery date for F.P. Journe Résonance 022/99—from 1999 to June 2000—underscores the importance of precise provenance. Among new watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Chronomètre combines integrated bracelets with a new High Precision Guarantee certification, recalling its 1970s Master Mariner designs. NOMOS introduces the hand-wound DUW 4701 calibre with quick-set date in an ice-blue Metro, while Tissot adds three quartz chronographs to the PRX range. At the independent end, DESDER debuts with six unique triple-axis tourbillons shaped by Italian coachbuilding references.

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LVMH-owned Zenith is considering up to 200 job cuts, including 100 at its Le Locle manufacture, as it reduces production, models and distribution following years of losses. CEO Benoit De Clerck outlined a repositioning toward lower-volume, higher-end watches, targeted for completion by 2029. Employee consultation began October 22; movement supply to other group brands and after-sales services would continue.

Why it matters (interpretation): This suggests sustained pressure on mid-priced Swiss luxury watches is prompting structural changes rather than temporary production adjustments. Zenith’s proposed cuts and repositioning would substantially reshape an established movement manufacturer within LVMH.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced Master Control Chronomètre, a collection of slim automatic sports watches with integrated bracelets. The range includes date, power-reserve and perpetual-calendar functions and carries a new HPG certification, short for High Precision Guarantee. Its design direction recalls the brand’s integrated-bracelet Master Mariner watches of the 1970s.

Why it matters (interpretation): This suggests a renewed push by Jaeger-LeCoultre into integrated-bracelet sports watches, with a new precision certification helping distinguish the collection.

DESDER’s debut D001 pairs a triple-axis tourbillon with Italian coachbuilding-inspired design, limited to six unique pieces. Founded in Modena, the independent brand brings together master watchmaker Luca Soprana and designer Mo Coppoletta. The watch’s sculptural forms draw on teardrop-bodied cars of the 1920s and 1930s and later Italian coachbuilders.

New Releases

Nomadic has launched the Dána 141, its first rectangular dress watch, priced at £1,250. The case measures 28mm wide, 39.6mm lug-to-lug and 8.3mm thick. Moonlight White, Emerald Green and Black Velvet dials feature vertical stripes and Art Deco detailing. A hand-wound La Joux-Perret D101 movement provides a 50-hour power reserve, visible through an exhibition caseback.

NOMOS Glashütte’s Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue, reference 1121, introduces the hand-wound DUW 4701 calibre with quick-set date, 52-hour power reserve and 3 Hz frequency. Its stainless steel case measures 37mm across and 8mm thick, with 50-metre water resistance. The metallic light-blue dial features rhodium-plated hands, complemented by a black Shell Cordovan strap.

Tissot has added three PRX Chronograph Quartz models with vertically brushed blue, black or silver dials, the latter with gold-colored accents. Their 41mm 316L stainless-steel cases measure 11.65mm thick and offer 100-meter water resistance. The ETA G10.212 PowerDrive quartz calibre measures up to 30 minutes with tenth-second precision; sapphire crystals and quick-release integrated bracelets complete the specifications.

Toledano & Chan’s B/1 Dazzle features a roughly 33.5mm Grade 5 titanium case and titanium dial with continuous camouflage stripes in frosted and satin finishes. Powered by the Sellita SW100, the standard edition costs $7,700 for 188 pieces; the Double Dazzle, set with 350 natural diamonds, costs $9,700 for 12 pieces.

Worth Reading

Early automobile racing created demand for tachymetric pocket chronographs and dashboard timers, later extending to wristwatches such as the Omega Speedmaster, Heuer Autavia and Monaco, and Rolex Daytona. Associations with Steve McQueen and Paul Newman subsequently helped the Monaco and Daytona gain cultural prominence and achieve substantial auction prices.

The Hermès Cape Cod retains a design inspired by the brand’s Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet. Its new titanium version takes a sportier direction than earlier, dressier iterations, while preserving the model’s distinctive shape.

What to Watch

  • 2026-11-07Phillips Geneva auction with Bacs & Russo runs November 7–8. — source story