Louis Erard has released the Futur Antérieur with Vianney Halter, priced at CHF 4,950. The watch comes with yellow-toned or silver-coloured dials, Vianney Halter’s signature rivets, ostrich leather, and an 8.85mm stainless-steel case.
Daily Digest
The Day in Watchmaking
Casio’s first mechanical wristwatch under the core brand stands out as the day’s most consequential move, pairing a Japanese automatic movement with a titanium case and functional styling. At the same time, a first-numbered Patek Philippe ref. 3970 is heading to Sotheby’s Geneva with its original box and certificate of origin, reinforcing how significant provenance continues to shape the upper end of the market. In Istanbul, the inaugural watch festival drew 7,500 visitors and brought together brands including Quantum, NOMOS Glashütte, Bremont and Doxa, underscoring the appeal of watch fair-style gatherings. Among the new releases, Louis Erard and Vianney Halter introduced the Futur Antérieur, Oris expanded its environmental-minded Aquis Date theme with the Kelp Forest Limited Edition, and Fossil revived the Signature CS-1 with a Swiss automatic movement. Jacob & Co., Ming and Massena LAB, Doxa and Rado also added new limited pieces.
Top Stories
Casio has presented the CMK-100, its first mechanical wristwatch under the core Casio brand. The watch comes in three variants and pairs a Japanese automatic movement with a lightweight titanium case and functional styling that recalls the Rolex Explorer.
Why it matters (interpretation): This marks a significant shift for Casio, which has long been associated mainly with digital and quartz watches. A mechanical core-brand model could signal a broader positioning strategy for the company.
The first numbered Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3970 will appear in Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva on November 8. Originally sold at Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon on January 14, 1987, the watch carries movement no. 875’000 and comes with its original box and certificate of origin.
Why it matters (interpretation): This is a historically important early example of a landmark Patek Philippe complication, and provenance like this can materially influence collector demand and auction pricing. It also highlights how rare, early-production vintage complicated watches continue to migrate back into the market.
Oris introduces the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition, a dive watch tied to ocean preservation and a conversation with underwater photographer Francis Pérez. The piece says the watch uses a textured dial inspired by kelp forests and continues Oris’s long-running environmental theme. Key technical specifications are not given in the excerpt.
The inaugural Istanbul Watch Festival brought 7,500 visitors to the Bosphorus event, with brands including Quantum, NOMOS Glashütte, Bremont and Doxa taking part. The festival focused on watchmaking and customisation, marking a new watch fair-style gathering in Istanbul.
New Releases
Fossil has brought back the Signature CS-1 in a 38mm case with mid-century styling and a Swiss-made Sellita automatic movement. The watch is offered in three dial colors, continuing Fossil’s focus on accessible mechanical watches.
Jacob & Co. has introduced a new Palatial Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater, limited to 12 pieces. The 43mm gold watch uses the JCCM04 calibre and a translucent red mineral dial that reveals the mechanism beneath, continuing the line that first brought the brand into chiming watches in 2014.
Jacob & Co. has introduced the Epic X Black DLC – The Eagle’s Legacy, a limited edition of 28 pieces. The watch features an openworked hand-wound JCAM45 movement and a gold dial motif with the eagle and serpent symbol tied to Mexican identity and culture.
Ming and Massena LAB have introduced the 57.09 Secret Honey, a 40mm Grade 5 titanium time-only watch with a 10.17mm case, 47.8mm lug-to-lug and 100m water resistance. It uses a Ming-specified Sellita 330.M2 movement, a layered brown dial with sapphire discs, and is limited to 125 pieces at CHF 7,250.
Doxa has launched the SUB 200T Afterglow, a 50-piece collaboration with Florida retailer Exquisite Timepieces. The 39mm x 10.7mm 316L stainless steel dive watch has a pink sunray dial inspired by Naples sunsets, with the design continuing the SUB 200T’s compact cushion-case format.
Rado has added three True Round x Les Couleurs Le Corbusier models, references R27049012, R27048162 and R27111162, each tied to a Le Corbusier building. The 40.0 mm high-tech ceramic watches use a Rado R763 automatic movement, have 50 m water resistance and casebacks printed with the palette’s 63 colour bands.
TAG Heuer marks 10 years with Oracle Red Bull Racing with a 38mm Formula 1 Solargraph special edition priced at €2,200. The steel watch uses the solar-powered TH50-00 calibre and adopts the team’s blue-and-red racing colors in a sporty Formula 1 design.
Worth Reading
Bremont, U-Boat, Auguste Reymond and Cauny will exhibit at Inhorgenta 2027 for the first time, while Frederique Constant, Alpina and Garmin are set to return. The news highlights changing brand participation at the Munich trade fair.
Zenith’s Chronomaster Solo Sport is reviewed as a three-hand take on the Chronomaster line, dropping the collection’s signature chronograph while keeping the high-frequency El Primero movement. The hands-on piece judges whether the watch can stand apart as its own model and still feel like a true Chronomaster.
CVSTOS’s Challenge Autodromo and Challenge Monaco use the brand’s carbon-cased Khachanov Carbon platform and swap the tennis theme for race circuits. Both measure 53.70mm by 41mm, weigh 50 grams, have 50-meter water resistance and display backs. The Monaco is limited to 30 pieces; the Autodromo to 25.
Monochrome Watches goes hands-on with the De Bethune DB25 Digitale, focusing on the independent brand’s futuristic design language, refined finishing and digital display concept. The piece highlights Denis Flageollet’s approach to materials and astronomy-inspired watchmaking through one of De Bethune’s more distinctive models.
Monochrome Watches hands on the O&HoraPictor Smoked Ocean Volcano Grey, a young-brand piece built around enamel dial work with fresh textures and colours. The review says the watch delivers strong value at an attainable price, highlighting the brand’s modern take on a centuries-old craft.
Hodinkee Japan rounds up 10 watches that use lume in unusual ways, from fully glowing dials and cases to translucent designs that reveal the movement in the dark. The first examples highlighted are IWC’s Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume ref. IW505801, Bell & Ross’s BR-X5 Green Lum ref. BRX5R-LUM-TC/SRB, and Split Watches’ In the Skies.
The feature argues that Ryan Reynolds’ watch taste goes far beyond common celebrity staples like Rolex Daytona and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. It cites his reported use of pieces by Roger W. Smith, Kari Voutilainen, F.P. Journe, Greubel Forsey and Sylvain Pinaud, plus a social-media hint that he wants to learn to dismantle a movement.
Italian Watch Spotter profiles Ebel’s origins in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1911, founded by Eugene Blum and Alice Levy. The piece recalls early awards, the brand’s emphasis on distinctive case design, and the renewed attention following a proposed investment involving F.P. Journe and Chanel.
Baudouin van Es says Tad Kozh was created as an incubator for heritage craftsmanship and a platform for emerging independent watchmakers. The project pairs independent manufactures with master artisans, giving them creative freedom and helping sustain specialist skills within high-end watchmaking.
Hodinkee’s weekly Bring a Loupe column highlights a Calabrese Baladin, Royce Professional Marine, Universal Genève jump-hour regulator and BWC chronograph, alongside other vintage finds. The roundup also notes previous picks including a Ulysse Nardin now available direct from the auction house for €12,000 and several lots still open or selling soon.
Wind Vintage founder Eric Wind says serious collectors do not want CPO watches, arguing that independent dealers are not threatened by the expansion of certified pre-owned programs. The piece frames CPO as a channel that appeals more to cautious buyers than to core collectors.
Why it matters (interpretation): This suggests certified pre-owned programs may expand the market without fully replacing the role of independent dealers in sourcing vintage and pre-owned pieces. It also reflects the growing importance of CPO as a parallel sales channel.
Two Broke Watch Snobs compares the Mido Ocean Star 200 and Oris Aquis in a hands-on dive watch shootout. The piece asks whether the Oris, at nearly three times the price, really outperforms the Mido and says the comparison produced an unexpected winner.
Quill & Pad features the Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe in a blue execution. The piece focuses on the watch’s colour treatment and presentation rather than announcing a new release.
What to Watch
- Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva — source story