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Edition of 2026-10-30 · UTCPublished 8 min read

The Day in Watchmaking

Casio’s first mechanical wristwatch under the core brand stands out as the day’s most consequential move, pairing a Japanese automatic movement with a titanium case and functional styling. At the same time, a first-numbered Patek Philippe ref. 3970 is heading to Sotheby’s Geneva with its original box and certificate of origin, reinforcing how significant provenance continues to shape the upper end of the market. In Istanbul, the inaugural watch festival drew 7,500 visitors and brought together brands including Quantum, NOMOS Glashütte, Bremont and Doxa, underscoring the appeal of watch fair-style gatherings. Among the new releases, Louis Erard and Vianney Halter introduced the Futur Antérieur, Oris expanded its environmental-minded Aquis Date theme with the Kelp Forest Limited Edition, and Fossil revived the Signature CS-1 with a Swiss automatic movement. Jacob & Co., Ming and Massena LAB, Doxa and Rado also added new limited pieces.

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Casio has presented the CMK-100, its first mechanical wristwatch under the core Casio brand. The watch comes in three variants and pairs a Japanese automatic movement with a lightweight titanium case and functional styling that recalls the Rolex Explorer.

Why it matters (interpretation): This marks a significant shift for Casio, which has long been associated mainly with digital and quartz watches. A mechanical core-brand model could signal a broader positioning strategy for the company.

The first numbered Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph ref. 3970 will appear in Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva on November 8. Originally sold at Patek Philippe’s Geneva salon on January 14, 1987, the watch carries movement no. 875’000 and comes with its original box and certificate of origin.

Why it matters (interpretation): This is a historically important early example of a landmark Patek Philippe complication, and provenance like this can materially influence collector demand and auction pricing. It also highlights how rare, early-production vintage complicated watches continue to migrate back into the market.

Oris introduces the Aquis Date Kelp Forest Limited Edition, a dive watch tied to ocean preservation and a conversation with underwater photographer Francis Pérez. The piece says the watch uses a textured dial inspired by kelp forests and continues Oris’s long-running environmental theme. Key technical specifications are not given in the excerpt.

New Releases

Ming and Massena LAB have introduced the 57.09 Secret Honey, a 40mm Grade 5 titanium time-only watch with a 10.17mm case, 47.8mm lug-to-lug and 100m water resistance. It uses a Ming-specified Sellita 330.M2 movement, a layered brown dial with sapphire discs, and is limited to 125 pieces at CHF 7,250.

Doxa has launched the SUB 200T Afterglow, a 50-piece collaboration with Florida retailer Exquisite Timepieces. The 39mm x 10.7mm 316L stainless steel dive watch has a pink sunray dial inspired by Naples sunsets, with the design continuing the SUB 200T’s compact cushion-case format.

Rado has added three True Round x Les Couleurs Le Corbusier models, references R27049012, R27048162 and R27111162, each tied to a Le Corbusier building. The 40.0 mm high-tech ceramic watches use a Rado R763 automatic movement, have 50 m water resistance and casebacks printed with the palette’s 63 colour bands.

Worth Reading

Monochrome Watches goes hands-on with the De Bethune DB25 Digitale, focusing on the independent brand’s futuristic design language, refined finishing and digital display concept. The piece highlights Denis Flageollet’s approach to materials and astronomy-inspired watchmaking through one of De Bethune’s more distinctive models.

Monochrome Watches hands on the O&HoraPictor Smoked Ocean Volcano Grey, a young-brand piece built around enamel dial work with fresh textures and colours. The review says the watch delivers strong value at an attainable price, highlighting the brand’s modern take on a centuries-old craft.

Hodinkee Japan rounds up 10 watches that use lume in unusual ways, from fully glowing dials and cases to translucent designs that reveal the movement in the dark. The first examples highlighted are IWC’s Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume ref. IW505801, Bell & Ross’s BR-X5 Green Lum ref. BRX5R-LUM-TC/SRB, and Split Watches’ In the Skies.

Hodinkee’s weekly Bring a Loupe column highlights a Calabrese Baladin, Royce Professional Marine, Universal Genève jump-hour regulator and BWC chronograph, alongside other vintage finds. The roundup also notes previous picks including a Ulysse Nardin now available direct from the auction house for €12,000 and several lots still open or selling soon.

Wind Vintage founder Eric Wind says serious collectors do not want CPO watches, arguing that independent dealers are not threatened by the expansion of certified pre-owned programs. The piece frames CPO as a channel that appeals more to cautious buyers than to core collectors.

Why it matters (interpretation): This suggests certified pre-owned programs may expand the market without fully replacing the role of independent dealers in sourcing vintage and pre-owned pieces. It also reflects the growing importance of CPO as a parallel sales channel.

What to Watch

  • 2026-11-08Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva — source story