Zenith plans to eliminate about 200 jobs as it shifts its focus toward high-end watchmaking. The restructuring follows several years of losses and expectations of challenging market conditions. Chief executive Benoit de Clerk announced the changes, according to Swiss newspaper Le Temps.
Why it matters: This suggests Zenith is pursuing a substantial strategic reset rather than a temporary cost reduction, betting on higher-end watchmaking to address sustained losses.
LVMH-owned Zenith plans to reduce its model range and production as it restructures following years of financial losses. Up to half of employees at its Le Locle manufacture could lose their jobs as the brand shifts toward the high-end market.
Why it matters: The potential scale of the job cuts suggests a fundamental reset of Zenith’s manufacturing footprint and commercial strategy, rather than a routine adjustment.
Atelier Mephalie is returning with three in-house minute repeaters from Shanghai. The comeback revives a dormant watchmaking brand with roots in the late 19th century, choosing complicated chiming watches for its return.
Also covered by: Fratello
Audemars Piguet moves into certified pre-owned watches, while Tudor gets involved in techno music and Eberhard & Co. opens its museum doors.
Former Longines designer Francis Jacquerye has launched Swedish watch brand Svea Atelier with its first dress watch, the Monolith. The design-led brand’s debut model features angular styling and a quartz movement, with prices starting at €680.
Gallet managing director Erwan Rossignol discusses the inspirations shaping the recently revived watch brand’s next era, drawing on its 200-year history and association with adventure.
Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern describes himself as a custodian of the manufacture, discussing its traditions, growth and future in an interview.
Omega has reopened its renovated 110-square-metre boutique at El Palacio de Hierro Polanco in Mexico City. The space follows the brand's international architectural concept, with displays referencing the Speedmaster's spaceflight heritage and the Seamaster. Actors Diego Boneta and Karla Souza joined Mexico brand manager Nino Aloisi for the ribbon-cutting, followed by a celebration at Casa Seminario 12.
TAG Heuer has reportedly stopped producing its Connected smartwatch line, raising the possibility of an exit from the decade-old business. Reports cited include La Lettre and several technology outlets, but neither TAG Heuer nor parent company LVMH has officially confirmed permanent discontinuation.
Why it matters: If confirmed as a permanent exit, this would mark a significant retreat from smartwatches by a major Swiss luxury watchmaker.
Serica has a collaboration with Peugeot, while Hublot’s next chapter and Grand Seiko’s design philosophy are also among this week’s watch-industry developments.
Movado Group has agreed to sell 95% of Ebel for $66.5 million to a group led by Montres Journe, alongside Chanel and Pierre Jacques, who will lead the brand. Movado will retain 5%. The transaction includes Ebel’s intellectual property, inventory and Villa Turque, with closing expected in the coming months.
Why it matters: The deal would place Ebel under new controlling ownership while allowing Movado Group to focus on accessible luxury, fashion watches and jewelry. The involvement of F.P. Journe and Chanel suggests potential for a strategic repositioning of the historic Swiss brand.
A consortium involving François-Paul Journe, Chanel and Pierre Jacques is acquiring Swiss watch brand Ebel from Movado Group for US$66.5 million. The deal transfers ownership of Ebel to the consortium, marking a new chapter for the brand.
Why it matters: This suggests a potential strategic reset for Ebel under owners with different watchmaking and luxury-sector interests from Movado Group.
Also covered by: Uhrenkosmos
Wempe opened its relocated Nuremberg boutique in September 2026, moving into significantly larger, light-filled premises. The opening brings a revised retail concept, which Kim-Eva and Chiara Wempe discussed with Gisbert L. Brunner.
Alexander Gutierrez Diaz is leaving Tempus Arte after six years to join Damiani Group and Baume & Mercier. The move brings him back to a familiar brand and corporate environment, while leaving Tempus Arte with a clearer leadership structure.
A London court ordered Samsung Electronics to pay Swatch Group $11.6 million in damages over third-party smartwatch apps that copied luxury watch dials. Judge Marcus Smith said offering apps bearing Swatch Group brands free or at low prices was damaging to those brands.
Why it matters: The ruling suggests that distributing third-party digital watch faces can expose platform operators to substantial liability over traditional watchmakers' trademarks.
Geneva Watch Days 2025 brought new releases alongside concerns over a 39% US tariff on Swiss watch imports. Singer Reimagined presented the Caballero, featuring a 39 mm steel case and the new Calibre-4 Solotempo with four barrels and six days of power reserve, priced around $22,000. Retailers fear higher prices could weaken demand in Switzerland’s largest watch export market.
Why it matters: The tariff threatens pricing and demand in Swiss watchmaking’s largest export market, potentially overshadowing the optimism generated by new launches.
Swiss watch exports rose 18.2% year-on-year to CHF 2.5 billion in April 2025, driven by a 149.2% jump in US shipments ahead of anticipated tariff increases. Without that exceptional boost, exports would have fallen 6.4%. China and Hong Kong declined 30.5% and 22.8%, respectively, while year-to-date exports increased 4.0%.
Why it matters: This suggests the export rebound reflects accelerated shipments rather than stronger underlying demand, masking continued weakness in key Asian markets.
President Donald Trump’s decision to impose 31% tariffs on Swiss imports includes watches, threatening margins and raising the prospect of higher US retail prices. The United States is Swiss watchmaking’s largest export market, worth nearly CHF 4 billion annually. Expert Olivier Müller expects watches above $50,000 to prove more resilient, while more accessible brands face greater demand risks.
Why it matters: This suggests Swiss watchmakers face a significant pricing and profitability challenge in their largest export market, with less expensive segments potentially more exposed to weaker demand.
End of feed · 18 stories